Kenmore Stove Repair in Mississauga

How much does Kenmore stove repair cost in Mississauga?

Kenmore stove repair in Mississauga typically runs $140–$520 all-in, depending on the fault. The most common Kenmore call-out is electric element not heating ($150–$350). Every visit starts with a flat $149.95 diagnostic, credited 100% toward your repair, and repairs are backed by a 90-day warranty.

Diagnostic: $149.95, credited 100% toward your repair
Warranty: 90-day on parts & workmanship
Availability: Same-day & next-day appointments available

Prices in CAD for Mississauga; typical ranges — your exact quote is confirmed on-site before any work. Updated June 2026.

Most Kenmore stove faults in Mississauga come down to a handful of parts — and the majority are worth repairing rather than replacing a 13–15 years appliance. Our certified technicians carry the common stove parts on the van, so most Mississauga jobs are diagnosed and fixed in a single visit.

Kenmore Stove repair costs in Mississauga

Honest, all-in ranges for common jobs. Every visit starts with a flat $149.95 diagnostic that is credited 100% toward your repair — so you never pay it twice.

Kenmore Stove repair costs in Mississauga (CAD) — typical all-in ranges, June 2026
Problem	Parts	Labour	All-in
Electric element not heating	$25–$160	$120–$190	$150–$350
Gas burner clicks but won't light	$0–$90	$120–$190	$150–$300
Gas burner clicks constantly	$0–$120	$120–$190	$150–$330
Induction element not working / fault code	$0–$320	$140–$220	$150–$520
Surface element stuck on high	$25–$160	$130–$200	$160–$360
Weak or yellow gas flame	$0–$80	$120–$190	$150–$280
Spark module / igniter failure	$40–$160	$120–$200	$160–$360
Control knob / igniter switch fault	$15–$140	$120–$190	$140–$330
Diagnostic (credited to the repair)			$149.95

Ranges are estimates for common Mississauga jobs; your exact quote is confirmed on-site before any work begins. Prices in CAD, updated June 2026.

How your repair works

Four simple steps, no surprises.

1

Book

Call or request a callback. Same-day & next-day appointments available.

2

Diagnose

A flat $149.95 diagnostic pinpoints the real fault.

3

Approve

You get an upfront all-in quote first — diagnostic credited 100% toward your repair.

4

Repaired

Fixed with OEM parts, backed by a 90-day warranty.

Common Kenmore Stove problems & what we check

Tap any problem for the likely causes, what is safe to check yourself, and what it costs.

Electric element not heating

Electric element not heating: One surface element stays cold while others work — the indicator light may glow but the element never heats (electric coil or smooth-top radiant only).

Also described as: coil not getting hot, burner cold, element dead, radiant element no heat

Likely causes

Burned-out surface element (coil or radiant) (electric-only) (Most common)
Failed surface-element receptacle / "plug-in" block on coil ranges, often heat-damaged (electric-only) (Common)
Failed infinite switch (the burner control) not sending power to the element (electric-only) (Common)
Broken wiring or a burnt terminal feeding the element (electric-only) (Occasional)
Failed control board or relay on glass-top models (electric-only) (Occasional)

✔ Safe to check yourself

On a coil range, swap a known-good coil into the dead position — if it heats, the original coil is bad; if it still won't heat, suspect the receptacle or switch.
Reseat the coil firmly into its receptacle; a loose plug-in is a common cause.
Confirm the element isn't blistered, cracked, or showing a burnt spot.

✖ Leave to a technician

Receptacle, infinite-switch, and wiring repairs run on 240V — technician job (shock/arc-flash risk).
On glass smooth-tops, removing the cooktop to reach radiant elements and the control board is a technician job.

If you wait: A heat-damaged receptacle or terminal can arc and char the wiring — a cheap element/switch now avoids a burnt harness later.

Time on site: 45 min–1.5 hours
Visits: Usually 1 (common elements/switches stocked)
Typical all-in: $150–$350
Repair vs. replace: Almost always worth repairing — elements, receptacles, and infinite switches are inexpensive.

Gas burner clicks but won't light

Gas burner clicks but won't light: You hear the igniter clicking and may smell a little gas, but the burner never catches a flame (gas range/cooktop only).

Also described as: burner won't ignite, clicking no flame, gas stove not lighting, sparks but no flame

Likely causes

Food debris or spilled liquid clogging the burner ports or the igniter gap (gas-only) (Most common)
Wet or misaligned burner cap/head sitting crooked on the base after cleaning (gas-only) (Common)
Worn or cracked spark electrode / igniter, or a corroded igniter wire (gas-only) (Common)
Weak or failing spark module so the spark is too weak to ignite (gas-only) (Occasional)
Clogged burner orifice or a partly closed manifold gas valve restricting gas flow (gas-only) (Occasional)

✔ Safe to check yourself

Turn the burner off, let it cool, then clean the burner ports with a straightened paperclip or pin and a stiff brush.
Lift off the burner cap and head, dry them fully, and reseat them squarely — a cap sitting crooked is a very common no-light.
Make sure the igniter electrode (the small ceramic-tipped post) is dry and free of food crust.

✖ Leave to a technician

If you smell gas that doesn't clear in seconds, stop: shut off the burner, ventilate, leave it to a TSSA-certified gas technician, and if the smell is strong leave the home and call Enbridge Gas (1-866-763-5427) or 911.
Do not work on the gas valve, manifold, orifices, or supply line — TSSA-certified only.
Electrode, igniter-wire, and spark-module replacement is a technician job (gas + electrical).

If you wait: Repeated clicking dumps unburned gas into the kitchen until it lights; a chronic no-light points to an electrode or module fault that gets worse and can leave gas pooling before ignition.

Time on site: 45 min–1.25 hours
Visits: Usually 1 (electrodes/modules commonly stocked)
Typical all-in: $150–$300
Repair vs. replace: Almost always worth repairing — cleaning, an electrode, or a spark module is inexpensive vs. a new range.

Gas burner clicks constantly

Gas burner clicks constantly: The igniter keeps clicking even after a burner lights, or it clicks on its own with every burner off (gas range/cooktop only).

Also described as: igniter won't stop clicking, clicking after lighting, all burners clicking, ticking nonstop

Likely causes

Moisture under the burner caps after cleaning or a boil-over (gas-only) (Most common)
A burner cap or head seated crooked, so the spark keeps arcing (gas-only) (Common)
A stuck or worn igniter switch under a control knob holding the spark circuit closed (gas-only) (Common)
Food debris bridging the spark electrode to the burner (gas-only) (Occasional)
Failing spark module misfiring across all burners (gas-only) (Occasional)

✔ Safe to check yourself

Turn every burner fully off, then dry under the caps — let the cooktop air-dry an hour after spills or cleaning.
Lift each cap and head and reseat it squarely; a crooked cap is the usual constant-click cause.
Clean food crust off the electrodes with a dry toothbrush.

✖ Leave to a technician

A constantly clicking module still energizes the spark — if you also smell gas, shut the burners off, ventilate, and call a TSSA-certified tech; strong smell, leave and call Enbridge Gas (1-866-763-5427) or 911.
Igniter-switch and spark-module replacement is a technician job.
No DIY on the gas valve or manifold — TSSA-certified only.

If you wait: Constant arcing wears the spark electrode and module and can pit the burner; left long enough it becomes a no-light.

Time on site: 45 min–1.25 hours
Visits: Usually 1
Typical all-in: $150–$330
Repair vs. replace: Worth repairing — often just drying/reseating, otherwise an inexpensive switch or module.

Induction element not working / fault code

Induction element not working / fault code: An induction zone won't heat, flashes an error/fault code, or shuts off after a few seconds — sometimes with a fan running underneath (induction cooktop only).

Also described as: induction zone dead, induction error code, induction not detecting pan, induction shuts off

Likely causes

Incompatible or off-centre cookware — induction needs magnetic (ferrous) flat-bottom pans (induction-only) (Most common)
Overheat shutdown from a blocked cooling fan or dust-clogged intake under the cooktop (induction-only) (Common)
Failed induction coil or power board (inverter) for that zone (induction-only) (Common)
Cracked glass or a failed pan-detection sensor (induction-only) (Occasional)
Supply/voltage fault — a tripped breaker leg or loose 240V connection (induction-only) (Occasional)

✔ Safe to check yourself

Test with a pan a magnet sticks to, centred on the zone — aluminum, copper, and glass won't work on induction.
Note the exact fault code shown and check the breaker — induction cooktops often run on a double-pole 240V breaker.
Make sure the under-cabinet vents/intakes aren't blocked and the cooktop has cooled before retrying.

✖ Leave to a technician

Coil, inverter board, and sensor diagnosis on 240V is a technician job — these store high voltage even unplugged.
A cracked glass top should be taken out of service; replacement is a technician job.

If you wait: A zone that overheats and shuts down repeatedly can stress the power board; a blocked fan left dirty leads to repeat shutdowns and board failure.

Time on site: 1–1.75 hours
Visits: Usually 1; board/coil order = 2
Typical all-in: $150–$520
Repair vs. replace: Cookware/fan issues: easy repair. Coil or power-board failure on an 8+ yr cooktop: weigh the board cost against replacement.

Surface element stuck on high

Surface element stuck on high: A burner heats to full power regardless of the knob setting, or won't turn off until you pull the breaker (electric ranges/cooktops).

Also described as: burner won't turn down, element only high, can't control heat, burner won't shut off

Likely causes

Failed infinite switch with welded/stuck contacts feeding constant power (electric-only) (Most common)
Failed surface-element relay on a glass-top control board (electric-only) (Common)
Melted/shorted wiring or a shorted element grounding to the chassis (electric-only) (Occasional)

✔ Safe to check yourself

Turn the burner off; if it stays hot, switch off the breaker to the range and leave it off until repaired.
Confirm the knob is fully seated on its shaft and the markings line up — a slipped knob can mimic this.

✖ Leave to a technician

A burner that won't shut off is a fire risk — kill the breaker and book a technician; do not keep using it.
Infinite-switch, relay, and wiring repairs run on 240V — technician job.

If you wait: A stuck-on element is a live fire risk and can scorch cookware, the cooktop, and adjacent cabinetry; the welded switch or relay won't recover on its own.

Time on site: 1–1.5 hours
Visits: Usually 1
Typical all-in: $160–$360
Repair vs. replace: Worth repairing — an infinite switch or relay is inexpensive relative to a new range.

Weak or yellow gas flame Same-day

Weak or yellow gas flame: The burner flame is low, lazy, yellow or orange instead of crisp blue, sometimes leaving soot on the cookware (gas range/cooktop only).

Also described as: orange flame, yellow flame, lazy flame, low flame, sooty burner, uneven flame

Likely causes

Clogged burner ports from food, grease, or boil-over residue (gas-only) (Most common)
Misaligned or wet burner cap/head sitting off its seat (gas-only) (Common)
Air-shutter mixture out of adjustment, or a clogged/partly blocked orifice (gas-only) (Common)
Wrong orifice/regulator for the fuel — e.g. an LP/natural-gas conversion not done (gas-only) (Occasional)

✔ Safe to check yourself

Let the burner cool, then clear each port with a pin and brush off grease — a clean blue flame usually returns.
Reseat a dry, correctly aligned burner cap and head.
A steady yellow flame on every burner after a recent install can mean the unit was set up for the wrong gas — note it for the tech.

✖ Leave to a technician

Air-shutter adjustment, orifice cleaning/changes, and any LP/natural-gas conversion are TSSA-certified work — not DIY.
A yellow flame can produce carbon monoxide — if you have headaches, nausea, or a CO alarm sounds, ventilate, leave, and call 911; have a working CO alarm in the kitchen area.
No DIY on the gas valve, manifold, or regulator.

If you wait: Incomplete combustion sooty burners, blackened pots, and a CO risk that rises the longer it goes uncorrected.

Time on site: 45 min–1.25 hours
Visits: Usually 1
Typical all-in: $150–$280
Repair vs. replace: Almost always worth repairing — usually a clean and air-shutter set, occasionally an orifice.

Spark module / igniter failure

Spark module / igniter failure: No burner sparks at all (no clicking anywhere), or sparking is weak and erratic across multiple burners (gas range/cooktop only).

Also described as: no spark any burner, igniter dead, no clicking, spark generator failed, all igniters out

Likely causes

Failed spark module (the spark generator that feeds every igniter) (gas-only) (Most common)
Moisture or a short in the wiring harness feeding the igniters (gas-only) (Common)
A stuck igniter switch holding the circuit so the module can't reset between burners (gas-only) (Common)
No power to the range or a tripped outlet/breaker (the spark needs 120V) (gas-only) (Occasional)

✔ Safe to check yourself

Confirm the range is plugged in and the outlet/breaker has power — a gas range still needs 120V for the igniters and clock.
If only some burners spark, dry the cooktop and reseat the caps; whole-cooktop no-spark points to the module.
You can still light the burners with a long match or lighter while waiting for service if there is no gas smell.

✖ Leave to a technician

Spark-module and harness replacement is a technician job (mains voltage + gas appliance).
If you smell gas at any point, don't use a flame — ventilate, shut the burners off, and call a TSSA-certified tech; strong smell, leave and call Enbridge Gas (1-866-763-5427) or 911.

If you wait: A failing module often arcs and clicks erratically before it dies; left alone you lose ignition on all burners.

Time on site: 1–1.5 hours
Visits: Usually 1 (modules commonly stocked)
Typical all-in: $160–$360
Repair vs. replace: Worth repairing — a spark module restores ignition to every burner at once.

Control knob / igniter switch fault

Control knob / igniter switch fault: A knob spins loosely or feels wrong, the burner ignores the setting, or only the click/ignition fires when you turn it — gas or electric.

Also described as: knob spins freely, knob does nothing, switch behind knob broken, burner only one setting, knob won't turn

Likely causes

Cracked or stripped control knob slipping on its D-shaft (gas + electric) (Most common)
Failed igniter switch behind the knob on a gas range (no spark when turned) (gas-only) (Common)
Failed infinite switch behind the knob on an electric range (no/uncontrolled heat) (electric-only) (Common)
Failed gas valve under the knob — gas won't flow or won't throttle (gas-only) (Occasional)

✔ Safe to check yourself

Pull the knob and check the plastic collar and the metal shaft — a stripped collar is a cheap, owner-replaceable knob swap.
Confirm you're pushing in before turning if your range needs it, and that the knob is fully seated.

✖ Leave to a technician

Igniter-switch and infinite-switch replacement (behind the control panel) is a technician job — gas appliance and/or 240V.
Gas-valve replacement is TSSA-certified work — no DIY; if you smell gas, ventilate and call a TSSA-certified tech, strong smell leave and call Enbridge Gas (1-866-763-5427) or 911.

If you wait: A slipping knob can leave a gas burner half-open or an electric element on an unintended setting; a failing switch tends to get worse until the burner won't respond.

Time on site: 45 min–1.25 hours
Visits: Usually 1
Typical all-in: $140–$330
Repair vs. replace: Worth repairing — knobs and switches are inexpensive; weigh a gas-valve cost on a 13+ yr range.

Kenmore stove parts we stock

A Kenmore range is another maker's range in a Sears badge -- and the first 3 digits of the model number decode whose. The dominant donors: 790. and 970. = Frigidaire/WCI-built (EOC F-code family: F10 runaway, F30/F31 sensor), 110. and 665. = Whirlpool-built (F1/F2/F3/F5 family), 362. and 363. = GE-built (F0/F1/F2/F3/F7/F9 family), 911. = Roper. We decode the FULL model and serial off the tag BEFORE the visit so the van carries the real maker's element, sensor and control -- Kenmore parts ARE the donor's parts (e.g. the 790. RTD is Frigidaire 316233902, the 110. bake element is Whirlpool WPW10276482), never a 'Kenmore' number.

Signature Kenmore faults

Frigidaire-built (790./970.) bake element / EOC no-heat — dead bake or F10/F30/F31 code (most common (790. donor))
Whirlpool-built (110./665.) bake element & sensor faults — dead bake; visible blister; F1/F2/F3 (most common (110. donor))
GE-built (362./363.) element & infinite-switch / sensor faults — one burner dead or stuck; F2/F3 code (common (362. donor))
Oven temperature sensor (RTD) drift across all donors — uneven bakes, no-heat with a sensor code (common)
Self-clean aftermath door-lock / runaway trips — F90-family (790.) or F5 (110./665.) after a clean (classic)

Kenmore stove OEM parts — reference numbers & price bands (CAD), June 2026
Part	OEM number	Price band
Frigidaire-built (790./970.) oven temperature sensor (RTD)	`316233902`	$25–$55
Frigidaire-built (790./970.) bake element (3000W)	`318255006`	$50–$100
Whirlpool-built (110./665.) bake element	`WPW10276482`	$55–$110
Whirlpool-built (110./665.) oven temperature sensor (RTD)	`WPW10131825`	$30–$60
GE-built (362./363.) bake element	`WB44K10005`	$40–$80
GE-built (362./363.) oven temperature sensor (RTD)	`WB21X5301`	$25–$50

Error codes we see on Kenmore stoves

F10 (790./970. Frigidaire-built): oven runaway temperature -- discontinue use until repaired
F30 / F31 (790./970. Frigidaire-built): oven temperature sensor (RTD) open / shorted
F90–F94 (790./970. Frigidaire-built): oven door lock/unlock circuit fault (self-clean)
F2 (110./665. Whirlpool-built): oven temperature too high / over-temp
F3 (110./665. Whirlpool-built): oven temperature sensor (RTD) open; F5 = door/latch
F1 / F2 / F3 / F7 (362./363. GE-built): control/keypad failure / over-temp / open-shorted sensor / stuck key (F9 = door lock)

Kenmore notes

The single most useful thing a Kenmore owner can text before the visit: the FULL model number (3-digit prefix + everything after the dot) off the tag -- it decodes the real maker and tells us which donor's element/sensor to load.
790. and 970. both decode to Frigidaire/WCI, so they speak the same EOC F-code language (F10 runaway, F30/F31 sensor) and take the same 316233902 RTD / 318255006 element -- the donor's parts, not a 'Kenmore' number.
The 665. prefix is the one worth confirming: ApplianceAid lists it as Whirlpool, and Kenmore 665 ranges throw the Whirlpool F1/F2/F3/F5 family (per Sears PartsDirect), so we treat 665. as Whirlpool-built, not GE.
362. and 363. confirm to GE on the master prefix charts; the adjacent 364. is NOT on those charts, so we don't publish it as GE -- we decode the full tag on site rather than assume.
We never invent Kenmore part numbers -- the part on the van is the donor's exact OEM number decoded from the prefix, which is why the model tag matters more than the badge.

Model families: 790.xxx / 970.xxx Frigidaire/WCI-built (EOC F10/F30-family) · 110.xxx / 665.xxx Whirlpool-built (F1/F2/F3/F5-family) · 362.xxx / 363.xxx GE-built (F0/F1/F2/F3/F7/F9-family) · 911.xxx Roper-built (Whirlpool-channel parts) · Kenmore / Kenmore Elite / Pro across all donor platforms

Availability: Decode-then-source: we read the 3-digit prefix off the model tag, then order against the REAL maker's number through that donor's channel -- 316-prefix (Frigidaire), WP/W10-prefix (Whirlpool) and WB-prefix (GE) cooking parts all stock GTA-wide. Gas work TSSA-certified only. These are OEM reference numbers — exact fitment is confirmed against your model and serial on-site.

Why homeowners across Mississauga call us

Repairs are carried out by our certified technicians — Appliance Repair Near is a Red Seal certified, 313A Licensed, TSSA Certified, ODP Certified company — backed by $2,000,000+ general liability insurance and a 90-day workmanship warranty on every job.

Red Seal technician

Work done by a vetted, certified technician — not a rotating subcontractor.

Licensed & gas-certified

313A refrigeration licence and TSSA gas certification for safe, code-correct repairs.

$2,000,000+ insured

Fully insured for general liability, so your home is protected during the repair.

90-day warranty

Parts and workmanship are warrantied — if it's not right, we come back.

OEM parts on the van

Common parts are stocked, so most jobs are completed on the first visit.

Upfront pricing

A flat $149.95 diagnostic, credited 100% toward your repair, and a quote before any work.

What our credentials mean for you

Red Seal Certified: The interprovincial standard for skilled trades — a journeyman who passed the national appliance-service exam.
313A Licensed: Ontario's refrigeration & air-conditioning systems mechanic licence — legally required to work on sealed cooling systems.
TSSA Certified: Technical Standards & Safety Authority gas certification — qualified to work safely on gas appliances.
ODP Certified: Ozone Depletion Prevention certification — licensed to handle refrigerants responsibly and to code.

Repair or replace your stove?

A simple rule of thumb: if the repair costs more than half the price of a comparable new unit and the appliance is near the end of its life, replacement may make more sense.

A stove typically lasts 13–15 years and costs $1,200–$2,500 to replace — so most faults under about $450 are worth fixing. We'll always tell you honestly when a repair isn't worth your money.

Keep your stove running

Simple habits that prevent the most common Mississauga repairs.

Wipe up boil-overs and spills once the burners or elements have cooled — trapped food clogs gas ports and damages coil receptacles.
On gas ranges, keep the burner ports and igniter electrodes clean with a pin and a stiff brush so the flame stays crisp and blue.
Dry the cooktop fully after cleaning and reseat the burner caps and heads squarely — wet or crooked caps cause most no-light and constant-click problems.
On coil ranges, lift the coils to clean underneath and check the receptacles for heat damage rather than dragging cookware across them.
On smooth-top and induction cooktops, use flat-bottom cookware (magnetic/ferrous for induction) and a glass-cooktop cleaner — avoid abrasives that scratch the glass.
Keep the under-cooktop vents and cooling-fan intakes clear on induction units so the power boards don't overheat.
Replace a cracked or loose control knob early, before the D-shaft rounds off.
Have a TSSA-certified technician check the burner flames, air-shutter adjustment, and gas connections periodically — keep a working carbon-monoxide alarm in the kitchen area.

Servicing Stoves across Mississauga

Local water: Region of Peel (South Peel Drinking Water System) — Lake Ontario via the Arthur P. Kennedy (Lakeview area) and Lorne Park treatment plants; source-water hardness 120–130 mg/L as CaCO3 (7.0–7.6 grains/US gal) in 2025: moderately hard. Honest take: essentially the same moderately-hard Lake Ontario water as Toronto (whose 2024 average was 121 mg/L) — the water is not the Mississauga difference. What differs is plumbing distance: long concealed dispenser runs in big suburban kitchens scale up and kink in ways downtown galley kitchens do not, so slow-water calls here are as often a line problem as a valve problem. Same 6-month filter rule; more line inspections.

Homes here: Suburban-detached dominant: about 37% of Mississauga's ~245,000 occupied dwellings are single-detached houses (2021 Census), most of them 1980s–2000s subdivisions (Erin Mills, Meadowvale, Lisgar) — big kitchens, French-door and side-by-side fridges with door dispensers, and long concealed water-line runs behind cabinetry. The City Centre cluster around Square One is the high-rise exception (about a quarter of dwellings are in 5+ storey buildings): counter-depth and built-in units with condo access rules. The lakeshore (Port Credit, Lakeview, Clarkson) mixes post-war bungalows with newer infill, and garage second fridges are a west-GTA staple.

Parts & timing: Most parts next-day across Mississauga; same-day when the route passes the depot.

Disposal & refrigerant: Different city, genuinely different rules: Peel Region no longer collects large appliances at the curb. A retired fridge, stove or dishwasher goes to a Peel Community Recycling Centre (large appliances and metal accepted free of charge), gets donated if it still works, or leaves with the retailer when the new unit is delivered. Curbside bulky pickup (furniture, mattresses) continues on the regular garbage day but excludes large appliances. Refrigerant recovery before scrapping remains a certified-technician job.

Coverage: City of Mississauga limits — the lakeshore (Port Credit, Lakeview, Clarkson, Lorne Park) up through Erin Mills, Streetsville, Meadowvale and Lisgar inside the QEW/403/407 box; Malton sits northeast by Pearson, reached via the 427/Derry corridor.

Towers & condos: City Centre / Square One towers need a service-elevator reservation like any condo cluster; everywhere else driveway parking and ground-level access are the norm.

Sources: municipal water quality report · appliance disposal rules. Facts verified 2026-06-11.

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Frequently asked questions

Why is my electric stove element not heating?

One surface element stays cold while others work — the indicator light may glow but the element never heats (electric coil or smooth-top radiant only). Most common cause: Burned-out surface element (coil or radiant) (electric-only). A typical repair is $150–$350, including the $149.95 diagnostic credited 100% toward your repair.

Why does my gas burner click but not light?

You hear the igniter clicking and may smell a little gas, but the burner never catches a flame (gas range/cooktop only). Most common cause: Food debris or spilled liquid clogging the burner ports or the igniter gap (gas-only). A typical repair is $150–$300, including the $149.95 diagnostic credited 100% toward your repair.

Why does my gas stove keep clicking?

The igniter keeps clicking even after a burner lights, or it clicks on its own with every burner off (gas range/cooktop only). Most common cause: Moisture under the burner caps after cleaning or a boil-over (gas-only). A typical repair is $150–$330, including the $149.95 diagnostic credited 100% toward your repair.

Why is my induction cooktop element not working?

An induction zone won't heat, flashes an error/fault code, or shuts off after a few seconds — sometimes with a fan running underneath (induction cooktop only). Most common cause: Incompatible or off-centre cookware — induction needs magnetic (ferrous) flat-bottom pans (induction-only). A typical repair is $150–$520, including the $149.95 diagnostic credited 100% toward your repair.

Why is my stove burner stuck on high?

A burner heats to full power regardless of the knob setting, or won't turn off until you pull the breaker (electric ranges/cooktops). Most common cause: Failed infinite switch with welded/stuck contacts feeding constant power (electric-only). A typical repair is $160–$360, including the $149.95 diagnostic credited 100% toward your repair.

Why is my gas flame weak or yellow?

The burner flame is low, lazy, yellow or orange instead of crisp blue, sometimes leaving soot on the cookware (gas range/cooktop only). Most common cause: Clogged burner ports from food, grease, or boil-over residue (gas-only). A typical repair is $150–$280, including the $149.95 diagnostic credited 100% toward your repair.

Why won't any of my gas burners spark?

No burner sparks at all (no clicking anywhere), or sparking is weak and erratic across multiple burners (gas range/cooktop only). Most common cause: Failed spark module (the spark generator that feeds every igniter) (gas-only). A typical repair is $160–$360, including the $149.95 diagnostic credited 100% toward your repair.

Why doesn't my stove knob control the burner?

A knob spins loosely or feels wrong, the burner ignores the setting, or only the click/ignition fires when you turn it — gas or electric. Most common cause: Cracked or stripped control knob slipping on its D-shaft (gas + electric). A typical repair is $140–$330, including the $149.95 diagnostic credited 100% toward your repair.

Do you charge for the diagnostic?

The diagnostic is a flat $149.95, and it is credited 100% toward your repair — so if you go ahead with the fix, it isn't an extra charge.

How soon can you come out?

Same-day & next-day appointments available across Mississauga. Call (647) 490-7878 and we'll give you the next available slot.

Are you licensed and insured?

Yes. Repairs are performed by Anthony, who is Red Seal Certified, 313A Licensed, TSSA Certified, ODP Certified, and the work is backed by $2,000,000+ general liability insurance and a 90-day warranty.

Do you use genuine parts?

Yes — we fit OEM parts and stock the common ones on the van, so most repairs are completed in a single visit.

Do you service Kenmore stoves?

Yes — Kenmore stoves are one of the brands we work on across Mississauga, with OEM parts stocked for first-visit fixes.

Need your Kenmore stove fixed in Mississauga?

Same-day & next-day appointments available. Flat $149.95 diagnostic, credited 100% toward your repair, and a 90-day warranty on every repair.

Call (647) 490-7878